GUIDE

Assessing Cabinet Condition Before Painting

★★★★★4.8 from 140+ Google Reviews

Assessing cabinet condition before painting takes about twenty minutes — and it tells you whether refinishing is the right call before you spend.

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How do I know if my cabinets can be painted?

Check the boxes before the doors. If the carcasses are square, the shelves are not sagging and the base under the sink is dry and solid, the cabinetry is a candidate regardless of how the doors look. Doors are surface — they can be repaired, filled and refinished. Boxes are structure, and swollen or water-damaged particle board is the one condition that argues for replacement rather than paint.

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THE HONEST LIST

Three Situations Where Paint Is the Wrong Answer

A useful way to judge a bid is to know what the common failures look like, because each of them is caused by a specific corner being cut. These are the four we see most on this city's houses.
FAILURE CASE 01

Failing boxes

Water damage into the carcass, swollen particle board, or structural movement. Refinishing doors onto boxes that are failing is money spent on a kitchen you will replace inside five years.
Prevented in Durahome Surface Prep
FAILURE CASE 02

A layout you dislike

If the actual problem is a wall where you want an opening, or a run of cabinets in the wrong place, paint does not solve it and no color will make it feel different. That is a remodeling conversation.
Prevented in Durahome Surface Prep
FAILURE CASE 03

And a counter that is doing the dating

This one catches people out. If your counter is a strongly patterned granite or a laminate of its period, it may be the element making the kitchen look old. Refinishing the cabinets around it produces a partial result, and the honest sequence is frequently the counter first and the cabinets in two years. Everything else — dated color, tired finish, worn hinges, sticking drawers, wrong hardware — is exactly what refinishing is for.
Prevented in Durahome Surface Prep
PREVENTION GUARANTEE

None of these is exotic. All three are prevented in the preparation stage, which is why our estimates spell prep out surface by surface and why the crews photograph it as they go.

STRUCTURE FIRST

Four Checks That Decide Everything

Almost every homeowner assessing their kitchen looks at the doors, because the doors are what they see. The decision actually lives one layer behind that, and these four checks take about five minutes.

ITEM 01

Open the sink base and look at the floor of it

This is the single most important thing on the page. A slow supply or waste leak under a sink swells particle board from the bottom up, and once it has gone soft it does not recover. A sink base with a swollen floor or delaminating sides is a genuine problem — sometimes it means replacing that one cabinet, occasionally it means the run.
ITEM 02

Push on a loaded shelf

A shelf that bows noticeably under ordinary weight is either too thin or has lost its support. On solid-wood carcasses this is rare. On particle board it is common, and it is fixable with additional support rather than a reason to replace.
ITEM 03

Check the carcasses are square

Open two adjacent doors and look at the gap between them, top and bottom. A gap that tapers means either a sagging hinge — trivial — or a box that has moved, which matters more.
ITEM 04

And look at the back corners of the cabinets nearest the range and the dishwasher

Steam and heat find the same weak points repeatedly, and these two locations are where you find the evidence first.
NOTE ON ESTIMATE COMPARISON
If all four are sound, you are looking at a refinishing project, whatever the doors look like. Solid maple and oak carcasses from the 1980s and 90s are frequently better built than a mid-range replacement, and the honest advice in that situation is to keep them.
SURFACE

Four More Checks, and What Each One Costs

REQUIREMENT 01

Look for warping

Sight along a door from the hinge edge. A door that is genuinely twisted will never close flat and cannot be corrected by refinishing — it can be replaced individually onto the existing box, which is a modest cost, but it should be identified before anyone quotes.
REQUIREMENT 02

Look at the joints on a raised-panel door

Where the center panel meets the frame, a hairline gap is normal seasonal movement and paints perfectly well. A joint that has genuinely opened, or a panel that rattles when tapped, is a repair rather than a preparation step.
REQUIREMENT 03

Feel the finish

Run a hand across a door near the range and one from the far end of the kitchen. If the first feels slightly tacky or leaves a residue, that is accumulated cooking grease — universal, invisible and the single most common reason a previous cabinet finish failed. It is removed by proper degreasing rather than by household cleaner.
REQUIREMENT 04

And check whether the finish is intact or failing

Press a fingernail into an inconspicuous edge. A hard, cured factory finish will resist it; a finish that marks easily, or that has already begun to chip or peel, has to be taken back to a sound surface before anything new goes on. That is more labor than a first refinish and belongs on the estimate openly rather than being absorbed.
BEFORE THE ESTIMATE

Three Things to Write Down

Your door count

Every door and every drawer front, counted separately, including the pantry, the island and anything built in. Cabinet work is priced per unit rather than by area, so this single number gets you most of the way to a real figure before anybody visits.

What the doors are made of

Solid wood, veneered plywood, thermofoil or laminate. The first two refinish beautifully. Thermofoil and laminate are a different conversation — thermofoil in particular can lift at the edges and does not accept coating the way wood does, and a contractor who does not raise that is not looking closely.

And whether the grain is open

Oak has visible open grain that telegraphs through paint; maple and cherry are considerably tighter. Filling the grain gives a smooth modern surface and adds time per door; leaving it keeps a painted-wood character. Neither is wrong, and it is a decision to make before the quote rather than after the first coat.
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CABINET ASSESSMENT

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03

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